🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end names. However, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest shop securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary honour.