Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their children do not want to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to explore these stories and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
